Florence

Florence is the birthplace of the Renaissance and one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Its compact historic centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is an open-air museum: Brunelleschi’s dome crowns the Duomo, the Uffizi holds masterpieces by Botticelli and Leonardo, Michelangelo’s David stands in the Accademia, and the Ponte Vecchio, lined with goldsmiths’ shops, has spanned the Arno since the 14th century. Cross the river to the Oltrarno for artisan workshops, the Pitti Palace and the Boboli Gardens, then climb to Piazzale Michelangelo for sunset over the terracotta rooftops. Between visits, there’s bistecca alla fiorentina, Chianti wine and the stalls of the Mercato Centrale.

The gay scene is small, relaxed and spread across the centre rather than packed into one district. The streets around Santa Croce have long been the heart of gay nightlife, and many locals also mix freely in the bars and piazzas of the Oltrarno, especially around Santo Spirito. Recently the scene has been changing, and several long-standing venues have closed. Party nights now play a bigger role, such as Mamamia, the city’s popular queer party, whose winter season runs at the Viper Theatre.

For culture, don’t miss the Florence Queer Festival in November, one of Italy’s longest-running LGBTQ+ film festivals, organised by the local association IREOS. June brings Pride month: Toscana Pride moves between Tuscan cities each year, and in summer Arcigay Firenze’s Pride River festival brings queer events to the riverside. Italy has recognised same-sex civil unions since 2016, and Florence is a welcoming, easy-going city for gay travellers.