Marseille

Marseille is France’s oldest city, founded by Greek sailors around 600 BC, and today its second-largest. It’s a sunny, gritty and endlessly lively Mediterranean port. Life centres on the Vieux-Port, where fishermen still sell the morning catch, overlooked by the golden basilica of Notre-Dame de la Garde. Wander the steep lanes of Le Panier, the oldest quarter, visit the striking MuCEM museum on the waterfront, or take a boat to the Château d’If of The Count of Monte Cristo fame. Just outside the city, the turquoise coves of the Calanques National Park are perfect for hiking and swimming. And no visit is complete without a bowl of bouillabaisse, the city’s legendary fish stew.

The gay scene is spread across the city rather than packed into one district. It mostly clusters around the Vieux-Port in the 1st arrondissement and the bohemian Cours Julien area in the 6th. L’Annexe Bar is proudly gay while welcoming everyone, and late-night dancing carries on at the legendary New Cancan club. Recurring parties are a big part of the scene, especially La Dégaine, now a fixture of Marseille’s queer nightlife. The community also has its own LGBTQIA+ Centre near the Vieux-Port, which opened at the end of 2023.

The highlight of the year is Pride Marseille in early July. It has run since 1993 and draws 15,000–25,000 people for a march that’s both militant and festive, ending with a free concert at the City Hall and an all-night official party. It caps a full Pride Month of events across the city. France has had marriage equality since 2013, and Marseille’s easy-going, open-minded spirit makes it a welcoming destination for gay travellers.