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Nuremberg

Nuremberg is Bavaria’s second-largest city and the heart of Franconia. Its medieval old town is surrounded by almost intact city walls and crowned by the mighty Imperial Castle. Wander the cobbled lanes past half-timbered houses, Gothic churches and the home of Albrecht Dürer, then browse the Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Germany’s largest museum of cultural history. The city also faces its 20th-century past head-on, at the Documentation Centre on the former Nazi Party Rally Grounds and the Memorium Nuremberg Trials in the historic Courtroom 600. Between visits, try the famous small grilled sausages, Nürnberger Rostbratwürste, with a local beer. In winter, the world-famous Christkindlesmarkt fills the Hauptmarkt with gingerbread and mulled wine.

The gay scene is friendly, unpretentious and easy to explore on foot. Most of it sits in and around the Altstadt, with more venues in the up-and-coming Gostenhof district just to the west. Mardi Gras, right on the busy Königstraße shopping street, is the obvious meeting point and a good place to start the night. From there, cosy bars are scattered through the old town, including the long-standing Savoy Bar, and many of the city’s alternative bars are relaxed, queer-friendly places too.

The highlight of the year is CSD Nürnberg Pride in late July and early August. Weeks of cultural events, parties and talks lead up to a big demonstration through the city centre, making it one of Bavaria’s major queer events. Germany has had marriage equality since 2017, and Nuremberg combines its rich history with a warm, open-minded atmosphere for gay travellers.

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