Naples

Naples, capital of Campania, is one of Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited cities, and its historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s loud, chaotic, passionate and full of life. Stroll down Spaccanapoli, the straight street that cuts through the old town, past baroque churches and street shrines, then see the breathtaking Veiled Christ in the Cappella Sansevero or explore the ancient tunnels of Napoli Sotterranea. The National Archaeological Museum holds treasures from Pompeii and Herculaneum, both an easy trip away beneath the brooding silhouette of Vesuvius. This is also the birthplace of pizza. Eat it where it was invented, then walk the seafront Lungomare to Castel dell’Ovo, or take a ferry to Capri, Ischia or the Amalfi Coast.

Naples has no gay village and few dedicated gay bars. Instead, the scene lives in the piazzas of the historic centre. Piazza Bellini is the main meeting point, and its bars spill out onto the square on warm evenings. Bar Fiorillo here is a long-time favourite, unofficially adopted by local gay men. Nightlife is driven more by events than by venues, so look out for pop-up and themed queer parties, especially in summer. The city also has a unique queer heritage: the femminielli have been part of Neapolitan popular culture for centuries.

The highlight of the year is Napoli Pride at the end of June. The first edition was held in 1996, and it is now one of the biggest Prides in southern Italy. The parade winds through the historic centre and ends with a big concert in Piazza Dante. In the days before it, a free Pride Park fills the city with art, talks and parties. Italy has recognised same-sex civil unions since 2016, and Naples’ warm, open-hearted spirit makes it a welcoming city for gay travellers.